I’m not gonna lie. The past week or so has been difficult. So much happening and yet, so much not happening…which kind of sums up life in Samoa. It’s all a load of contradictions.
For example, one minute the sun is shining. The next it is pouring with tropical rain that almost immediately floods roads and creates waterfalls. It is so loud on the roof that talking to someone in the same room becomes impossible.
I knew being a volunteer would be difficult when I came to Samoa. The change in lifestyle, the language barriers, the food challenges, my actual assignment and meeting and trying to build trusted relationships with so many new people were part and parcel with signing up. I knew that there would be bad days and good days, and I accepted that as part of the job. I also knew that I was going from being a senior member of management in Australia to being a volunteer who would probably get asked to do things that junior staffers would do. And I knew that there was going to have to be a certain amount of putting up with things that I wouldn’t ever put up with in Australia.
There’s been all of that. And more.
Some days are absolutely amazing. Last week I was part of celebrations to mark the 50th anniversary of the Journalists Association of (Western) Samoa (JAWS) and World Press Freedom Day/Week. The week long celebrations included an event where I was sitting just metres away from the Prime Minister, a workshop on Women in Media that was run by the BBC Media Action team, an awards ceremony attended by two former Samoan Prime Ministers and other events. I was in the ‘Room where it happens’[1] in Samoa every day.
But some days are harder than others. And the past few days have been a run of those.
For some reason, Fridays here are often not very easy going. Last Friday was a doozy of a day where I felt like I was being attacked from all sides.
Then I found out over the weekend that someone I love in Australia had died. She was someone who provided love and a secure space for me years ago when I first moved to Australia. And her peace and grace over the years helped me through some dark times.
Thinking that maybe the weekend had helped calm things in the office was wishful thinking. Monday was even worse than Friday.
And Tuesday continued the trend.
By Wednesday, I needed a mental health day. I took the day off and focused on me. I didn’t focus on anyone else’s needs or what needed to be done at work or at home. I only did what I wanted to do. Things that bring me joy.
And as the day progressed, I started to write down the things that bring me joy here. A list of some of my favourite things about Samoa, if you will. I would love to set it to the music of ‘My Favourite Things’, but I’m not even going to try. 😊
Some of my Favourite Things (in no particular order)
My house – it’s my sanctuary high on the hill, overlooking forests and the ocean. I wake each morning to birdsong and now at the end of the rainy season, the sound of the nearby waterfall. It’s a comfy place, far from the madding crowd. And the excellent mosquito netting on the windows means that I can live and sleep without being pestered by mozzies that may carry dengue fever. While we’re talking about my house, the furnishings bring me joy. Those that didn’t come with the house, I’ve been able to gather from various garage sales. My house isn’t fancy but it is comfortable.
The view as I drive to work – From the top of the hill, I can see out over the ocean for miles. It reminds me that I am a very small human, living on a tiny rock in the middle of a HUGE ocean of water. It helps keep me humble each morning.
The fruit ladies. Nina and her sister run an organic fruit and vegetable stand by the side of the road to my house. They sell a wide variety of locally grown produce and products. Whenever I stop (which is often through the week) they always throw in a ‘free gift with purchase’. That might be a bunch of bananas, a huge avocado or papaya or a niu (drinking coconut). It’s always a mystery of what Nina slips into my bag and I always smile when I get home to unpack it.
Samoan food – traditional Samoan food centres around taro, fish, coconut cream and koko Samoa. It’s all naturally gluten free and delicious. For breakfast I enjoy eating Koko Ris – rice cooked in Samoan grown, roasted and ground cocoa. It’s like eating warm Coco Pops. Yum! Many specialties including pulasami, fa’alifu taro, roast pork and chicken are cooked in an umu, a traditional Earth oven filled with hot volcanic rocks. I also love oka – Samoa’s version of cerviche with fresh, raw tuna cubed and marinated in lime juice then mixed with creamy coconut milk. My favourite version of oka includes a lot of chili too!
Samoan friends Otila, Seiuli Pito, Naomi, Perelini. At my pre-departure briefing in Melbourne, I was told that it was vital to find a ‘penguin’ (someone who I could trust and who I could ask questions of who would help me on the ground) once I arrived. I am so grateful to have a few ‘penguins’. My friend Otila lived in the US for close to 40 years after growing up here in Samoa and is one of my best sources for information when I just don’t understand something culturally. She’s also a gutsy single woman who loves adventures and the two of us enjoy hanging out or hiking or participating in trivia nights. Seiuli Pito and Naomi I met through my first volunteer assignment and instantly we were friends. And Perelini is my next-door neighbour and landlord. He’s also a very senior matai (chief) here and one of the most interesting men I’ve met. I am grateful that he is happy to answer my questions about politics and society. He makes sure my lawn gets mowed and organises workmen to come round to fix my roof or other issues. I’ve discovered he has a sweet tooth so whenever I bake, some cookies or brownies end up heading his way which I think he appreciates.
My daughter – my youngest daughter came to visit in November. She was originally meant to stay two weeks, but seven months later, she’s still here. She’s recovering from an accident, and my peaceful Samoan sanctuary has been vital to her recovery. We’ve been good for each other and although I never would have wished what’s happened to happen, it’s been lovely to have so much time to spend together. Her being here has been vital to keep me feeling supported and loved. Recently we’ve taken to sunrise walks at the Baha’i Temple gardens which are near the house. It’s a special time for both of us and starting our day together helps us start the day with joy.
I’ve always been a dog person and the dogs in my street always bring a smile to my face. Dogs are everywhere in Samoa. 85% of the population own dogs, mainly for security. Not all dogs are treated as well as the ones in my street. The four of them run as a pack and guard our street and all of us feed them and look after them in return for guard services. The two youngest of the pack are Bear and Panda. They were puppies when I arrived last year and have adopted me. Most afternoons if I’m home, they hang about in my garden, sleeping in the shade or in the carport. They know I’m a soft touch and often give them Schmackos as a treat. The two older dogs are slower to come round. The oldest, Rambo, loves a pat and since he’s missing many teeth, gums his Schmackos happily. The other is nameless but the alpha dog of the street and worries more about keeping the street safe than Schmackos.
Haven Spa is my first call when things are getting me down. The owner is an amazing masseuse and the relaxing massage I had on Wednesday was just what I needed.
Water is the source of life and Le Vai is one of the places here that sell treated, filtered water. My house has rainwater tanks for laundry and dishes and showers but it is unsuitable for drinking. And even town water needs to be boiled before drinking. So being able to get drinking water that I can trust is basic and necessary and it also brings me joy.
The story of buying my car was popular on this blog and every day I’m grateful that I have that little car. It carries me safely around the island, has great tyres and air conditioning and despite its small size, can haul quite a lot of furniture and luggage when needed. I love that it’s a manual which makes getting home at night a breeze.
My car also makes my weekend exploring possible. Amazing places abound in this small but beautiful country and adventures are around every corner. After a few months of rainy season, it is nice to once again see the sun and start planning some new adventures. I’m excited to visit the big island of Savai’i for work again soon and this weekend I will be at the beach at Lalomanu with friends who are visiting from Australia and New Zealand.
My kayak will get more of a workout now that rainy season is finished. Nothing brings me joy like a sunrise or sunset paddle inside the reef.
The last thing on my list is the sky. I’ve always been a moon and stargazer and the sky here in Samoa is absolutely stunning. Again, I feel so small, but it brings me joy seeing the moon and stars and knowing that they watch over me, like they watch over all of the people that I love, all around the world.
By the time I got to the end of the list, I was definitely feeling better.
[1] Reference to a song in the hit Broadway musical Hamilton.
Believing in Me 
your words bring me joy. Vickie
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